Coastal Geomorphology
Coastal geomorphology is the study of the physical processes that shape the landforms and landscapes found along coasts. The coast is a dynamic system that is constantly changing in response to natural forces such as waves, tides, and wind, as well as human activities such as beach nourishment, coastal development, and sea level rise. The coastline, in particular, is a dynamic feature that is constantly changing over time.
The coastline changes over time due to the processes of erosion and deposition. Erosion is the process by which waves, wind, and currents remove sediment from the coastline, while deposition is the process by which sediment is added to the coastline. These processes are driven by a variety of factors, including wave energy, sediment supply, and sea level change.
Over time, the coastline can change in a variety of ways. For example, erosion can cause cliffs to collapse, beaches to narrow, and sea stacks to form. Deposition can cause beaches to widen, sand dunes to form, and barrier islands to develop. These changes can have significant impacts on coastal ecosystems and on human activities such as tourism, fishing, and coastal development.
Coastal Mapping Tool
Digital Earth Australia (DEA) has a great web tool that shows the change in the coastline over the past few decades. It is linked here.
In it you can see some truly remarkable processes taking placed before your very eyes. Here are some snippets we came across when exploring.
Coastal geomorphologists study these processes and their impacts to better understand how the coastline changes over time. This information is important for coastal management, as it can help us develop strategies for mitigating the impacts of erosion and deposition and for managing human activities in coastal areas. By understanding the dynamic nature of the coastline, we can work to ensure its continued health and resilience for generations to come.
If you want to read more about coastlines, and in particular, the coastline paradox, check out our recent blog post.